Insight Guides: Bali & Lombok by Insight Guides

Author:Insight Guides
Language: eng
Format: epub
Tags: Travel, Bali
Publisher: APA

Taman Ujung, a former royal summer retreat.

Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

Ujung to Amed

From Ujung the road continues about 6km (4 miles) along the coast and uphill to Seraya. A vehicle with very good brakes (preferably a four-wheel-drive) is necessary, especially for continuing further along the northeastern coast to Amed. The views of the ocean along this route are breathtaking, with black-sand beaches filled with hundreds of colourful jukung (outrigger fishing boats), and the route is worthwhile for those seeking adventure. From Seraya, it winds another 25km (15 miles) or so along a narrow road filled with sharp bends around the base of Gunung Seraya (1,175 metres/3,855ft), and on to the beach side resort area of Amed.

Taman Tirtagangga to Amed

An easier and just as picturesque route to Amed continues 6km (4 miles) northwest of Amlapura to Taman Tirtagangga ‚[map] (daily 8am–5pm; charge, with additional fees for different pools), the “Water of the Ganges Park”, another royal water park. Local people flock here just before sunset to bathe in pools fed by natural springs gushing out from animal statues and fountains. Parts of this water park were destroyed by the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963 and subsequently repaired. Some recently added architectural elements, however, don’t do justice to the site.

Pura Lempuyang

From Taman Tirtagangga, the road leads 4km (2½ miles) to Abang, with spectacular views between two mountains, Gunung Agung to the west and Gunung Seraya to the east. Back in the late 1960s (or so the story goes), before electricity reached this part of Bali, a space satellite reported the observation of a blue beam emanating from earth; the precise location was plotted and the source confirmed as the temple of Pura Lempuyang ⁄[map] (daily daylight hours; donation).

Just east from the main road is a white structure nestled on the hillside: this is the split gate of the lower temple. Drive up to this point by turning right at Abang, and on a clear day you will see a breathtaking view of Gunung Agung, perfectly framed within the boundaries of the gate. The temple guardians – three pairs of colossal sea serpents, complete with scales and ferocious teeth – border a trio of towering steps, but this is only the beginning. Further on, a stairway of 1,700 steps winds through the forest up to the temple itself, 768 metres (2,520ft) above sea level. The intense spiritual energy of this place is almost tangible.

From Abang, it’s another 14km (9 miles) along a winding road, forking right first at Culik, to Amed.

Amed

Although Amed ¤[map] refers to the fishing village, it is also the name given to a series of gravelly beaches tucked into coves and stretching several kilometres along the coast, like Jemeluk, Lipah, Lehan, Selang and Aas. Out to sea are views of Lombok while those inland are of Gunung Agung. All along the beach are colourful fishing outriggers and thatched huts where salt is produced. It is an idyllic setting and perfect for those who shun crowds. Village life is simple here, but

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